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Canoes and Kayaks
Open canoes, touring kayaks, sea kayaks, recreational kayaks, whitewater kayaks, surf kayaks ... the list goes on. As you can see there is a wide range of kayaks and canoes for just about every possible use. Finding the one that is right for you can be a confusing task but hopefully the information provided below will help guide you in your decision making.
Although there is a technical difference between a canoe and a kayak, for purposes of keeping it simple we will use the term kayak to refer to all of our paddlable water craft.
Choosing the right kayak for you.
When deciding to buy a kayak there is a number of questions which you should answer before purchasing. This will help ensure that the kayak you buy is best suited to your needs and will give the most enjoyment.
What do you want to use the kayak for and where will you be using it?
You should decide what you want to use your kayak for and where it will be used - ponds, streams, lakes, rivers, ocean, etc. The right kayak for ponds and lakes might not be the right kayak for ocean (and it might be dangerous to consider using your kayak for the ocean based on the type of kayak you decide upon).
Who will be using the kayak?
Who will be using the kayak will also help determine what is suitable. If you need a kayak which the entire family can use then this may be different to if you buying specifically for yourself.
Types of Kayaks
As listed above there are a wide range of kayaks available for different purposes. Below is a guide as to which type of kayak is best suited for what use. In most cases each type may be able to be used for multiple purposes depending upon the skill and knowledge of the paddler.
Sit on Top Kayaks
This type of kayak has become really popular during the last few years and there is now literally a sit on top type kayak for any purpose. The advantage of a sit on top is that if you fall off, you can simply climb back on again, which makes them ideal for the entire family. They are made of plastic so can be dragged up beaches or down to the lake without worry. Having a single molded hull and deck means there is nothing to be left behind (don’t forget the paddle) and they are easy to store and transport.
So if you want to hit the surf at your local beach, do some day trips exploring on the lake or inlet or want to take the rod for a spot of fishing then these could be just what you are after.
At R&R Sport we have a large range of Sit on top kayaks for you to choose from.
Sea Kayaks
Sea kayaking is great way to travel with gear. Sea kayaks differ from sit on tops in that they generally have a cockpit where the paddler sits and covers with a spray deck, to prevent water from entering. They are typically heavier and longer than the sit on tops and come in a range of materials from plastic to fiberglass and kevlar. They also cost more.
One of the big advantages of a sea kayak is the ability to stow a large amount of gear in them, which makes them perfect for multi-day camping trips or epic adventures. Typically they have a front and rear sealed hatch for stowing gear and several points on top of the deck for attaching extra gear and essentials such as a map, compass or snack food.
As with sit on tops there is a wide range of uses for sea kayaks. Although all sea kayaks can be used for most purposes the shape of the hull and the length will make some models favorable over others for specific uses. Also most sea kayaks have an adjustable rudder system which makes controlling them a lot easier, especially if your paddling in ocean swells.
Whitewater Kayaks
Whitewater kayaks are made of plastic and designed for specific use, primarily paddling down rivers! They don’t have rudders or large storage compartments. They are smaller than sea kayaks both in length and volume but are extremely maneuverable. Like sea kayaks they have a cockpit where the paddler sits and covers with a spray deck.
Within whitewater kayaks there are several main types of kayak styles: Creek, River and Play. The difference between the three is that creek kayaks generally have the largest volume capacity; blunt round ends to prevent entrapment between rocks, a large easily escapable cockpit and secure attachment points allowing for ropes to be attached should the kayak become trapped. This style of whitewater kayak will tend to suit the more experienced kayaker and/or larger paddlers. On the opposite end of the scale is the play kayak. These are generally very short, with low volume and sharp ends which allow them to perform tricks easily. The river runner fits in between these two styles of kayak.
If you are interested in whitewater kayaking or would like more information please feel free to call into your local R&R Sport store, or email us and we will be happy to help.
What else do I need to go kayaking ?
Depending upon the type of kayak you choose will influence what other gear you will need, however regardless of this the one essential piece of equipment will be a paddle.
Paddles
There are a variety of paddles for each use, so depending upon what you primarily want to do with your kayak will help determine what paddle suits you best. For sit on tops and all round family use a basic paddle with alloy shaft and plastic blades will be adequate. If you are planning on going sea kayaking or touring then a variation on the basic paddle will be best. These typically have a longer reach and formed blades to allow for more efficient strokes. They can also come in a variety of materials such as carbon/kevlar depending upon the price.
Wetsuit
Ideal when learning or if you have purchased a sit on top. Wearing a wind breaker jacket over top is also a good idea when paddling as it will stop the wind chill from making you cold.
Lifejacket
Essential ! Do not even contemplate getting on the water with out a lifejacket. Now days there are a wide variety of designs and styles so there is bound to be one that will fit you comfortably with out restricting your movement.
Spraydeck
These are required if your kayak has a cockpit, as they prevent the water from entering your kayak. They are sized based on the cockpit dimensions and your waist measurements.
Canoes and Kayaks
Open canoes, touring kayaks, sea kayaks, recreational kayaks, whitewater kayaks, surf kayaks ... the list goes on. As you can see there is a wide range of kayaks and canoes for just about every possible use. Finding the one that is right for you can be a confusing task but hopefully the information provided below will help guide you in your decision making.
Although there is a technical difference between a canoe and a kayak, for purposes of keeping it simple we will use the term kayak to refer to all of our paddlable water craft.
Choosing the right kayak for you.
When deciding to buy a kayak there is a number of questions which you should answer before purchasing. This will help ensure that the kayak you buy is best suited to your needs and will give the most enjoyment.
What do you want to use the kayak for and where will you be using it?
You should decide what you want to use your kayak for and where it will be used - ponds, streams, lakes, rivers, ocean, etc. The right kayak for ponds and lakes might not be the right kayak for ocean (and it might be dangerous to consider using your kayak for the ocean based on the type of kayak you decide upon).
Who will be using the kayak?
Who will be using the kayak will also help determine what is suitable. If you need a kayak which the entire family can use then this may be different to if you buying specifically for yourself.
Types of Kayaks
As listed above there are a wide range of kayaks available for different purposes. Below is a guide as to which type of kayak is best suited for what use. In most cases each type may be able to be used for multiple purposes depending upon the skill and knowledge of the paddler.
Sit on Top Kayaks
This type of kayak has become really popular during the last few years and there is now literally a sit on top type kayak for any purpose. The advantage of a sit on top is that if you fall off, you can simply climb back on again, which makes them ideal for the entire family. They are made of plastic so can be dragged up beaches or down to the lake without worry. Having a single molded hull and deck means there is nothing to be left behind (don’t forget the paddle) and they are easy to store and transport.
So if you want to hit the surf at your local beach, do some day trips exploring on the lake or inlet or want to take the rod for a spot of fishing then these could be just what you are after.
At R&R Sport we have a large range of Sit on top kayaks for you to choose from.
Sea Kayaks
Sea kayaking is great way to travel with gear. Sea kayaks differ from sit on tops in that they generally have a cockpit where the paddler sits and covers with a spray deck, to prevent water from entering. They are typically heavier and longer than the sit on tops and come in a range of materials from plastic to fiberglass and kevlar. They also cost more.
One of the big advantages of a sea kayak is the ability to stow a large amount of gear in them, which makes them perfect for multi-day camping trips or epic adventures. Typically they have a front and rear sealed hatch for stowing gear and several points on top of the deck for attaching extra gear and essentials such as a map, compass or snack food.
As with sit on tops there is a wide range of uses for sea kayaks. Although all sea kayaks can be used for most purposes the shape of the hull and the length will make some models favorable over others for specific uses. Also most sea kayaks have an adjustable rudder system which makes controlling them a lot easier, especially if your paddling in ocean swells.
What else do I need to go kayaking ?
Depending upon the type of kayak you choose will influence what other gear you will need, however regardless of this the one essential piece of equipment will be a paddle.
Paddles
There are a variety of paddles for each use, so depending upon what you primarily want to do with your kayak will help determine what paddle suits you best. For sit on tops and all round family use a basic paddle with alloy shaft and plastic blades will be adequate. If you are planning on going sea kayaking or touring then a variation on the basic paddle will be best. These typically have a longer reach and formed blades to allow for more efficient strokes. They can also come in a variety of materials such as carbon/kevlar depending upon the price.
Wetsuit
Ideal when learning or if you have purchased a sit on top. Wearing a wind breaker jacket over top is also a good idea when paddling as it will stop the wind chill from making you cold.
Lifejacket
Essential ! Do not even contemplate getting on the water with out a lifejacket. Now days there are a wide variety of designs and styles so there is bound to be one that will fit you comfortably with out restricting your movement.
Spraydeck
These are required if your kayak has a cockpit, as they prevent the water from entering your kayak. They are sized based on the cockpit dimensions and your waist measurements.
Surfing
Choosing the right board for you.
If you are just getting started in surfing then it is important to buy the right board for your skills. Surfboards that are suitable for learners are always in demand, so even though you may only use the board for a few months they are well worth the investment. Provided they are kept in good condition they should hold their price well. Buying a board to learn on will make your time in the water more enjoyable and the progression to a more advanced board quicker and easier.
Now that you are ready to start looking at beginner surfboards, here are a few guidelines to help make you sense of the information provided by the surfboard manufactures.
LENGTH:
Choosing you first surfboards length can be determined sometimes by what's available in a budget price. Try and go for something in the range of 16- 20 inches longer than yourself. It's a strange thing but the more length of board you have in the water, within reason, the easier it is to paddle. This is because their is more foam underneath you but also you are more balanced on the board making for less dead weight. When starting your on your surfing lessons you don't want to be hindered by a lack of flotation , you want to be catching as many waves as you can, and until your arms develop their paddling strength, you need all the flotation you can get, and help to keep you motivated.
THICKNESS:
Like the length, width thickness means flotation. For thickness this means a surfboard with about 2 and a half inches of foam. Its thickest point should be near the halfway point of your surfboard.
WIDTH:
Most modern surfboard widths these days are around the 18 to 19 inches. Choose something more towards 19 inches. It'll give more stability and will be a lot easier to sit on while waiting for a wave, and like the extra length it too will aid in the paddling department. The waves you'll be practicing in initially will be fairly small, most likely in the one to three foot range, and as a beginner you'll stand heavy on your board, so a bit of width will give you more feeling under foot.
SHAPE:
The widest point of a surfboard is usually found just forward of the centre point and then running back towards the tail for about 3 inches. By increasing the width of the nose of a surfboard you will aid it in paddling. Shapers use this trick to hide a little extra foam in a surfboard. This has the effect of drawing the plan shape or outline out, so the widest point will be a little longer. Measure back from the tip of the nose 12 inches or 300 mm and if the measurement is around eleven and a half inces to twelve inches then this is quite a good width nose and should paddle easy. For the beginner a board whose nose seems a little wide is better. Now measure 12 inches back up from the tail along the centre. Measure across the surfboard at right angles. If it reads something around 14 inches that'll be good. At this stage don’t worry too much about the actual shape of the tail but a rounded square or round tail is probably the most suitable.
Short Boards (For the more advanced)
Short boards tend to be the most popular type of surfboard. Short boards handle more conditions, ride tighter in the pocket, are more maneuverable, and go faster than any other board. Short boards are not the easiest boards to ride, but once you have spent time on them, they become easy to ride.
Short boards are generally defined as high performance shapes that run anywhere from 5'6" up to around 7'0" and are between 17" and 20" wide. The dimensions vary depending on the rider's size and experience, as well as personal preference. Thicknesses vary from under 2" to about 3". Nose widths usually vary between 10" and 12" while tails are usually between 12" and 15" although lately there has been a lot of variation in the nose and tail widths. Almost all current short boards are tri-fins although there are also 5 fin models.
What else do I need to go Surfing?
LEG ROPE:
Leg ropes attach to your board and to your leg, usually just above the ankle, and help prevent your board going astray or washing away from you when you come off. When you are learning the waves will usually be smallish and you will not be too far away from the beach so choose an appropriate leg rope, you will not need the toughest one available. What you will need is one that has a swivel, can be easily attached or detached from your board.
WAX:
Surf Wax helps add traction to your board when you start to stand up. There are numerous types of wax available but as a guide when you are learning look for a wax that can be used all year round. Never over wax your board and keep it clean. A wax comb is also a good investment. These can be used to clean off excess wax or to roughen up the existing wax, helping to add traction.
WETSUITS:
Definitely a good idea. When you are learning you will spend a lot of time in and under the water. A wetsuit will help keep you warm and allow you to enjoy surfing rather than shivering. If your budget can afford it then a steamer with full arms and legs is recommended. See our wetsuit selection for more information about how to choose the correct wetsuit.
BODYBOARDS
Body boards are a great alternative to a surfboard. Smaller and easier to pack away they can be used by all members of your family.
Choosing the right Body Board for you.
When sizing a body board that's right for you, a general rule of thumb is to pick a board that comes to your belly button. A smaller board is easy to handle while a larger board will be more stable.
Board width is measured at the widest point on the board and is critical because it is directly related to overall curve of the template. A board with a large difference between the nose width and mid width will be very "curvy". This type of board will turn very quickly. Having a small difference between the nose and width will keep a "straight" template, normally used in larger waves for long drawn out turns.
The board core is the inside of the body board and determines the strength and flexibility of the board. Polyethylene (PE) is the most common core used in body boards and it works well in most conditions. It has a good memory and flex for turning.
Safety Warning: Never venture in the surf on a body board without fins!
Wetsuits
KEY CONCEPTS
Good wetsuits are not cheap, but on cold days are well worth the investment. Deciding which type of wetsuit you need depends on the water temperature that you are surfing in. The temperatures we quote are only guidelines as some people feel the cold more than others.
Wetsuits are made from neoprene, a stretchy synthetic rubber material. Several of these pieces of neoprene are stitched together to cover the desired body parts. Wetsuits come as shorties (with short legs and arms) and full suits.
The neoprene comes in different thickness, from 2 to 5 mm. The thicker the neoprene the warmer the suit. A Wetsuit works by trapping a thin layer of water between the Wetsuit and the skin. The body temperature of the surfer heats this water giving a nice warm water blanket. This is why getting a Wetsuit that fits well is a must. The Wetsuit should be a nice tight fit (not too tight that you can't move freely) and there should be no baggy areas where the suit comes away from your body. If it is for cold water make sure that there is also a nice tight fitting neck - there is nothing worse than ducking under a wave and getting a blast of cold water right down your back.
SUMMER STEAMERS
Great for those windy days when it would be too cold in a shortie. For surfing in summer (and depending on whether you feel the cold or not, or just how cold the water will be), you will either need a 3/2mm or 4/3mm steamer. Our summer steamers should be used when the water temperature is between 16 – 22c and are made of either 3/2mm or 4/3 neoprene.
If you like comfort go for a thicker suit - but keep in mind that a thicker suit is a less flexible suit.
TIP: If you are surfing down the bottom of the South Island of New Zealand we recommend a full 4/3 steamer or thicker, regardless of the season.
SPRINGSUITS
If you only going to be surfing during the summer months then a spring suit will be fine. A spring suit is for water temperatures above 70F and is made of 2mm neoprene.
RASH VESTS
The Rash Vest, sometimes referred to as a Rash guard, is an essential piece of equipment for the surfer. Rubbing yourself up against a surfboard without one can leave you rather sore. A rash vest will also keep the sun off your skin. If you are out surfing in the mid day sun a rash vest will stop you getting burnt to a crisp and when it's colder, it can give you a little extra layer of warmth for a lot less cost than a new wetsuit.
When buying a rash vest that will not be worn under a wetsuit make sure that the vest offers UV protection. If you are going to wear your rash vest with board shorts and not under a wetsuit it will need to be a tight fit. Too loose and it will come up over your head or the water will get in under it and cause all sorts of problems.
WINTER STEAMERS
A full suit is needed for water temperatures below 18C. Depending on whether you feel the cold or not, or just how cold the water will be you will either need a 4/3mm or a 5/3mm wetsuit. A 5/3mm suit will be needed if the temperatures get below 6C. If the water is going to be very cold you will also need booties, gloves and a wetsuit hood - and for those extra cold days an extra rash vest to help keep the heat in.
MAINTENANCE
The principal enemies of any neoprene paddling garment are salt water, salt crystals, chlorine and ultra-violet rays from sunlight.
Taking care of your wetsuit will involve carefully and thoroughly rinsing after each session in the water, letting them air dry completely, and then storing them in a cool, dry and dark environment.
Wakeboards
Wakeboarding is one of the fastest growing board sports in the world. So naturally, there is a nearly overwhelming selection of wakeboards to choose from. As riding styles become more distinguished, endless wakeboard shapes and constructions miraculously emerge, accommodating nearly every style and ability.
Choosing the right board and bindings for you
Wakeboards
Not only is it important to match the size of your wakeboards to your height and weight, it’s important to know your riding style and the wake you most commonly ride in order to gain optimal performance from your wakeboards. When choosing a wakeboard that the whole family will use, always choose the board that will suit the largest family member !
Length:
Throughout the years different riders have been known to ride wakeboards that may seem too big or too small for them according to the manufacturer’s sizing chart. The reason is that wakeboards a size smaller or a size bigger can help distinguish a certain style of riding.
Sizing down will make the wakeboard feel lighter, spin faster and seem more aggressive. But your landings do suffer. There is not as much surface area to plane across the water, so the wakeboard will not float you as well. You will have to work a little harder to keep the nose from digging in and you may have to increase your boat speed a bit to help you plane. However, smaller wakeboards are great for people who like to do a lot of handle-pass flips and spins and move around the water fast.
Sizing your wakeboards up from your established size lends a slower, smoother style. A bigger wakeboard moves slower in the water, making you look smoother. The bigger surface area makes the wakeboard act a little like a truck, but really lets you spin slowly and hold on to those grabs for a long time. If you are into going big, the increased surface area lets the wakeboard land softer, saving your body from the bigger impacts.
So what size should I start with ?
Below are some guidelines to help you. Remember these are a guide only and that your riding style, height and also the range of people and uses will impact upon the size you may eventually choose.
| Rider Weight (kg) | Indicative Board Length (cm) |
|---|
| Up to 40 | 119 – 127 |
| 40 - 50 | 121 – 135 |
| 50 - 60 | 131 – 137 |
| 60 - 80 | 135 – 140 |
| 80 - 90 | 137 – 142 |
| Over 90 | 142 + |
Width:
The width of a wakeboard determines two things: how easily it pops off the wake and how quickly it turns. Narrow ends will make the board turn more quickly in the water but will not release off of the wake as easily. A wide center portion of the board will give you more pop off of the wake but takes away some of your edging capabilities. For a larger wake, choose a wider board because you won't need as much speed to get a lot of air and your landings will be much softer due to the extra surface area. For a smaller wake, choose a narrower board.
Rocker:
The rocker is the composition of the bottom of the board. There are two types of rocker, the 3-stage rocker and the continuous rocker. A three stage rocker is angular. There are three sections of the board that meet each other at angles. This is good for getting explosive pop off of the wake and directs your momentum more upwards into the air. But the landings on a 3 stage board are rougher. A board with a continuous rocker is arched rather than angled. This directs your momentum outward rather than upward and helps you go farther into the flats on big jumps. It also helps to cushion your landings.
Fins:
The number and size of the fins on the bottom of the board will effect how hard it edges and how "loose" it is in the water. There are two types of fins, those that are screwed in and those that are molded in. They work the same way. The more fin surface-area you have on your board, the more responsive it will be to your edging and the tighter it will be. If you have small fins, your board will be looser, allowing you to spin on top of the water; making you rely on your edge to turn. Some pro riders use boards with fins, others don't. It depends on your style. Beginning riders will probably want the added stability that large fins provide.
Bindings
Finding the right board is only half the battle when it comes to shopping for a wakeboarding setup. You can't ride that board without bindings, and not just any bindings will do. Using ill-suited bindings can lead to sore feet, poor riding, and even some serious injuries. Beginners will benefit most from a snug, supportive binding so if you can afford it then they buy the best binding your budget will allow.
Below are some guidelines to help you choose the correct binding for you.
Size
One of the most important things to do when buying wakeboard bindings is to make sure that you get the right size for your feet. You want them to be snug, but not too tight. Bindings that are too small will end up hurting your feet, limiting the amount of time you will be able to be on the water. On the flip side of the coin, bindings that are too big can lead to some bad injuries. You don't want your feet to fall out of your bindings except in the hardest of falls. Most manufacturers have a Small, Medium, Large, Extra-Large sizing scheme that will fit the majority of foot sizes.
Flexibility
Some bindings are stiff while others are flexible. What you want all comes down to your riding style. People coming from a snowboarding background will tend to feel more comfortable in stiffer bindings while people from a water ski background tend to like more flexible bindings. Flexibility can also tie into ankle support; flexible bindings will give you greater mobility and allow you to stylize your riding a bit more, but stiff bindings are easier on your ankles.
Weight
The weight of bindings is a huge factor. It is generally better to have lighter bindings. The downside is that light bindings are more likely to rip, tear, or break. But the lighter your board and bindings are, the higher you will be able to go.
Ankle Support
Ankle injuries are the most common type of injury in wakeboarding (followed closely by knee injuries). Side-to-side and front-to back rigidity will help to protect your ankles in nasty falls. If you have bad ankles already, this is doubly important.
Ease of Entry/Exit
There are several different types of bindings on the market. Each one has its own unique way to tighten and loosen them. Find something that you will be comfortable doing in the water. Some examples are lace-pulls, cranks and hinges. The material the bindings are made of is also something to watch out for. Some bindings have a slippery cloth lining while others are made of rubber. Remember when you are shopping that it will be easier to get them on and off when they are wet.
Obviously, we've only just touched on the basics here. If you're in the market for a wakeboard, come into the store and talk to our knowledgeable staff. Alternatively, call or drop us an e-mail if you'd like to know more.
Help choosing the right tent for you...
When it comes to camping, your tent is your most important purchase. You need to really think about what your intended use is as there is such a variety of tents available, and no one tent (that we know of !!) can do everything from family camping to alpine hiking.
So consider what is most important to you. If you can be clear about the following questions you will find choosing a tent much easier. Where will I be using it? What conditions [wind, snow loading, family camping], seasons and temperatures can you expect? How many people do you want to be able to sleep in it? Is UV Proofing important? How much ventilation do you need? Do you want to be able to stand up in it? Are you going to be carrying it on your back or taking it in the car? Hopefully our help pages can assist you in making up your mind.
WHAT TENT IS RIGHT FOR YOU?
In very general terms, canvas tents are for those wanting a longer more comfortable camping experience - for those that are not on a really tight budget and have room in the boat/car/trailer to carry a canvas tent. Canvas tents use steel frames so tend to be very sturdy with more head space. Dome tents are for those who do a variety of camping from overnight to longer stay, those wanting a more compact tent and at a more affordable price than a canvas. Dome tents use fibreglass poles and nylon/polyester fabrics. Alpine and hiking tents are for those that are carrying their tents on their backs and therefore what the optimum balance between strength and waterproofness in all seasons but as light as possible. They normally use an aluminium pole and are compact to sleep in! For more about each type of tent, read on...
Canvas Tents
Suitable for longer camping holidays. You have the option of 1 or 2 rooms and then the additional choice of adding on a sunroom to your front awning to create another fully enclosed room. If you have children, the two room canvas tents are by far the more comfortable option. The tents come with a sturdy steel frame which further protects you from the elements, it also means that they are a lot quieter than a dome tent in the wind. The fabric is waterproof, UV resistant and hard wearing, meaning that you get more life out of your tent.
The other huge bonus with a canvas tent is VOLUME. As the tents are of a square design you get alot more headspace that a tradional dome, which is much more relaxing and more like being in a small house - no having to bend in half to get dressed in the mornings. Our range of canvas tents also have great ventilation and light features via windows and side openings. There is a misconception that canvas tents take hours to erect. Not our tents, they come with easy instructions and colour coded poles and sleeves. Sure, the first time it will take you longer, but after that its no longer than 20 minutes with 2 people.
We encourage you to put the tent up in your back yard first anyway - for two good reasons. One - you may get to tour campsite in the dark and this will help in quick pitching if you have already done it once and second, its best to 'weather' your tent prior to use. Weathering your tent means pitching it and letting it get rained on and dried out several times. This ensures that the stitching expands where it goes through the stitch holes and prevents any sneaky leaks.
TENT FABRIC
Waterproofing in canvas tents
This is called a waterproof rating. A fabric that is waterproof at 1000mm can withhold a column of water 1 meter high on top of it!! Note - this measure refers to the pressure of the water on the fabric not how much rain has fallen [eg: 150mm in the last 24 hours]. It is also important to be aware that coating a fabric actually weakens it. Therefore manufacturers will coat the fabric the minimum amount possible while still being practically waterproof. Therefore a fabric waterproofed to 10,000mm instead of 3000mm (for example) does not indicate a better fabric nor is it required, as in canvas tents a 800mm fabric is sufficiently waterproof to withhold rain.
Waterproofing can be done through two processes:
- Impregnated waterproof fabrics
This involves waterproofing by impregnating each fibre. Usual water head rating is from 450 to 750mm. This means that a column of water 450 to 750mm high can be placed on the fabric before water can be forced through it. This method has more advantages as impregnating allows the pores of the fabric to breathe naturally, avoiding condensation.
- Coated Waterproof Fabrics
In coated fabrics, the waterproofing is coated over the surface of the fabric only. Most coated fabrics will have a water head rating of between 1000 to 1600mm. Although this method produces a higher waterproof rating, the spread coating seals the pores in the fabric and will not allow it to breathe. Once the coating has been punctured by sewing, the fabric cannot shrink easily around the stitch holes and this makes the tent less waterproof along the seams.
Burst strength
The amount of force required to puncture the fabric. The test is carried out with a spike on the end of pendulum that swings into a section of fabric from different heights until it breaks through the fabric.
Tear strength
The amount of force required to rip the fabric in half. The test is carried out with a machine that clamps either end of the fabric and stretches the fabric until it tears.
TIPS FOR SELECTING THE RIGHT CANVAS TENT
- Consider the size, weight and portability of your tent. How much room do you have in the car or boat to transport the tent.
- How many people do you need to sleep in the tent and how much living space do you require? The additional sunroom can be a great extra space for either sleeping or living
- How much outdoor shelter/protection does the tent provide
- Do you require separate living areas for family members?
- Where are you going camping, how often and for how long?
Dome Tents
Dome Tents are highly popular due to being both lighter on the pocket than a canvas and taking up less room in the boot. Ideal for those who do a mixture of overnight/weekend and longer stay camping.
Dome tent flys are made of either nylon or polyester of a mixture of both. Nylons hold their strength better over their life span and are slightly more resistant to UV exposure. On the other hand, new coatings can increase polyester fabrics strength and polyesters flys shrink and expand a lot less than there nylon counterparts due to a lower level of water absorbsion. Whether you chose a tent with a nylon or a polyester fly doesn't really matter too much [Manufacturers often have both nylon and polyester tents in their range and/or vary which fabric type of fabric they use depending on new technologies, availability and pricing). In short tent fabrics are continually under review. To make your life simple let the manufacturer worry about the type of the fabric and chose a reputable brand that has good after sales service.
The floor fabrics of tents are generally made in heavier fabrics with additional waterproof coating to make them more durable and watertight. When it comes to waterproofing/waterhead rating, Nylon or polyester fabrics have by themselves no waterproofing ability. The waterproofness of a fabric is determined by a coating that is rolled onto the fabric [on cheaper fabrics the coating is sprayed on resulting in uneven application and a less durable adhesion]. Waterproofing is measured in hydrostatic head. A fabric that is waterproof at 3000mm can withhold a column of water 3 meters high on top of it!!
Note - this measure refers to the pressure of the water on the fabric not how much rain has fallen [eg: 150mm in the last 24 hours]. It is also important to be aware that coating a fabric actually weakens it. Therefore manufacturers will coat the fabric the minimum amount possible while still being practically waterproof. Therefore a fabric waterproofed to 10,000mm instead of 3000mm (for example) does not indicate a better fabric nor is it required, as a 1500mm fabric is sufficiently waterproof to withhold rain.
HELPFUL HINTS
- Always follow the manufacturers instructions
- If possible, try to pitch your tent so that the rear of the tent faces the prevailing wind
- If possible do not pitch your tent under trees. The dripping on your tent will keep you up at night and falling branches can damage your tent. Tree sap and bird droppings will cause irreparable damage to your tent
- Always ensure that the fly is velcroed onto the frame (if this is part of the design), that way when all the guy ropes are pegged out, they will hold the frame of the tent in place. It also ensures that the guy ropes pull on the frame, not just the fly
- Always peg out the guy ropes
- Hit your pegs in at a 45 degree angle
- Always pack away and store your tent completely dry - rain or condensation will rot your tent if it is packed away damp
- Do not leave your tent pitched unnecessarily. UV light shortens the life of your tent
- Leave windows open during the day to make for a cooler tent
- When pushing the poles out of the pole sleeves, bend them slightly. This will keep the poles connected together. Pushing the poles in and out of the sleeves is easier and better for your tent
Alpine, Hiking and Travel Tents
Your tent is your shelter from the outside world. It must be able to keep moisture [dew, rain, snow etc] out and the warmth in, bur remain breathable. It also needs to be strong enough to handle winds, and/or snow loadings, and in order for you to stay comfortable be able to vent foul air out of the tent.
SEASONS
A tent's performance is commonly rated in 'seasons'. Some care must be used when comparing tents 'season ratings' especially between different retailers and manufacturers, and bearing in mind which country you intend to use it in.
4 Season Alpine
For use in alpine conditions all year round. These are the strongest tents available and are designed to handle heavy snow loadings, extreme winds and very cold temperatures.
4 Sseason Tramping
These are tents that you can use all year around, ideally beneath the snow-line.
3 Season Tramping
Strong and lightweight, but not designed to handle high snowloads (hence not recommended for winter). 3 season tramping tents are usually designed for warmer temperatures and are often made with mesh inserts for better air flow. Suitable for activities such as travelling and camping.
Travel/touring
These tents are designed for situations where weight is important, hence they are lightweight as well as waterproof. Ideally for summer use but, depending on climate and country, can be used in 3 seasons. These tents are designed to handle moderate winds and rain.
POLES
EASTON 7075 E9
The strongest tent poles available. Produced in the US by Easton. Most commonly found on alpine tents as most other categories of tent don't require the performance.
DURALIUM 7001 T6
Durable, strong aluminium pole with a copper and magnesium mix. Excellent cheaper option for tents that still require a performance aspect. They are approx. 80-90% as good as the Easton 7075 E9.
FLY FABRICS
There are two main fabric options; nylon and polyester, there are however many different fabric options for tent flys. There are very few measures that allow consumers to compare fabric properties. There are however a number of general rules. By and large nylons hold their strength better over their life span and are slightly more resistant to UV exposure. On the other hand, new coatings can increase polyester fabrics strength and polyesters flys shrink and expand a lot less than there nylon counterparts due to a lower level of water absorbsion.
Whether you chose a tent with a nylon or a polyester fly doesn't really matter too much [Manufacturers often have both nylon and polyester tents in their range and/or vary which fabric type of fabric they use depending on new technologies, availability and pricing. In short tent fabrics are continually under review. To make your life simple let the manufacturer worry about the type of the fabric and chose a reputable brand that has good after sales service.
FLOOR FABRICS
Floors are made in heavier fabrics with additional waterproof coating to make them more durable and watertight.
WATERPROOFING / WATERHEAD RATING
Nylon or polyester fabrics have by themselves no waterproofing ability. The waterproofness of a fabric is determined by a coating that is rolled onto the fabric [on cheaper fabrics the coating is sprayed on resulting in uneven application and a less durable adhesion]. Waterproofing is measured in hydrostatic head. A fabric that is waterproof at 3000mm can withhold a column of water 3 meters high on top of it!! Note - this measure refers to the pressure of the water on the fabric not how much rain has fallen [eg: 150mm in the last 24 hours].
It is also important to be aware that coating a fabric actually weakens it. Therefore manufacturers will coat the fabric the minimum amount possible while still being practically waterproof. Therefore a fabric waterproofed to 10,000mm instead of 3000mm (for example) does not indicate a better fabric nor is it required, as a 1500mm fabric is sufficiently waterproof to withhold rain.
Maintaining your tent
UV Damage
UV light is the most common cause of tent damage and wear. Protect your tent by packing it down during the day or if you must leave it up hanging a piece of cheap nylon over the tent to protect it. This hanging piece of fabric can also be useful for additional shade and keeping your tent cool.
In Use
When pitching your tent, follow the instructions carefully. Clear the site of any sharp objects that may damage the tent floor.
Storage
After using your tent store it 100% dry. Any moisture trapped in the tent fabric can cause fabric deterioration and mildew growth. It is usually advisable to hanging your tent up when you get home and air it out. This is also a good chance to straighten any bent pegs and check your flysheet for damage.
Dome Tents
Check out our Camping checklist at the bottom of this page to help with your packing!
Dome Tents are highly popular due to being both lighter on the pocket than a canvas and taking up less room in the boot. Ideal for those who do a mixture of overnight/weekend and longer stay camping.
Dome tent flys are made of either nylon or polyester of a mixture of both. Nylons hold their strength better over their life span and are slightly more resistant to UV exposure. On the other hand, new coatings can increase polyester fabrics strength and polyesters flys shrink and expand a lot less than there nylon counterparts due to a lower level of water absorbsion. Whether you chose a tent with a nylon or a polyester fly doesn't really matter too much [Manufacturers often have both nylon and polyester tents in their range and/or vary which fabric type of fabric they use depending on new technologies, availability and pricing). In short tent fabrics are continually under review. To make your life simple let the manufacturer worry about the type of the fabric and chose a reputable brand that has good after sales service.
The floor fabrics of tents are generally made in heavier fabrics with additional waterproof coating to make them more durable and watertight. When it comes to waterproofing/waterhead rating, Nylon or polyester fabrics have by themselves no waterproofing ability. The waterproofness of a fabric is determined by a coating that is rolled onto the fabric [on cheaper fabrics the coating is sprayed on resulting in uneven application and a less durable adhesion]. Waterproofing is measured in hydrostatic head. A fabric that is waterproof at 3000mm can withhold a column of water 3 meters high on top of it!!
Note - this measure refers to the pressure of the water on the fabric not how much rain has fallen [eg: 150mm in the last 24 hours]. It is also important to be aware that coating a fabric actually weakens it. Therefore manufacturers will coat the fabric the minimum amount possible while still being practically waterproof. Therefore a fabric waterproofed to 10,000mm instead of 3000mm (for example) does not indicate a better fabric nor is it required, as a 1500mm fabric is sufficiently waterproof to withhold rain.
HELPFUL HINTS
- Always follow the manufacturers instructions
- If possible, try to pitch your tent so that the rear of the tent faces the prevailing wind
- If possible do not pitch your tent under trees. The dripping on your tent will keep you up at night and falling branches can damage your tent. Tree sap and bird droppings will cause irreparable damage to your tent
- Always ensure that the fly is velcroed onto the frame (if this is part of the design), that way when all the guy ropes are pegged out, they will hold the frame of the tent in place. It also ensures that the guy ropes pull on the frame, not just the fly
- Always peg out the guy ropes
- Hit your pegs in at a 45 degree angle
- Always pack away and store your tent completely dry - rain or condensation will rot your tent if it is packed away damp
- Do not leave your tent pitched unnecessarily. UV light shortens the life of your tent
- Leave windows open during the day to make for a cooler tent
- When pushing the poles out of the pole sleeves, bend them slightly. This will keep the poles connected together. Pushing the poles in and out of the sleeves is easier and better for your tent
GEAR CHECKLIST - FAMILY CAMPING
- Check the facilities of the campground - especially if you are going with children or to a remote area (like a DOC campground), i.e are the sites powered.
- Check out any hazards in the campsite area, especially for children, such as streams, rivers and busy roads.
- Your tent!
- Gas light/torches
- Sleeping Bags
- Sleeping Mats or stretchers
- Pillows if you can fit them in!
- Fold up-chairs
- Waterproof picnic rugs or a large piece of canvas to out on the ground
- Rubbish bags and extra zip lock bags
- Insect repellant
- Sunscreen, hats, rash-shirts etc
- First-aid kit
- Your own fuel stove and spare fuel or gas stove and gas cylinder
- Dishwashing things including a separate dishwashing bucket if you can
- Toiletries including toilet paper, soap, face cloths and towels
- Rope and pegs for drying clothes
- Large water container, water bladders or drink bottles
- Spare fly or shade tent and associated ropes and poles
- Jandals for easy-on shoes to get to and from the loos and showers, for prickly terrain or burning sand
- Chilly bin or gas fridge
- Plates and eating utensils
- Mugs and drink bottles
- Basic tent repair kit - emergency pole sleeve, duct tape, seam sealant etc
EXTRA FOR CAMPING WITH YOUNG CHILDREN
- Cards, books, toys, games, puzzles, drawing pads and pens - for wet weather
- On the ground high chair for babies
- Nappies, wipes, pushchair or baby carrier
- Childrens clothes, sunhats, sleeping bags, towel, warm blankets, sunhat and beanie, toys and books
- Portacot or pop-up cot
- A plastic contrainer such as a fish bin for bathing littlies, or a solar shower
- Kids bikes, balls, kite
- Cricket set, frisbees etc
- A small pack for day walks
- Lots of food!
- Warm clothes - even in summer it can get chilly - especially at night!
- Maybe they'd like to keep a holiday diary?
Canvas Tents
Check out our 'camping checklist' at the end of this page to help with your packing!
Canvas Tents are suitable for longer camping holidays. You have the option of 1 or 2 rooms and then the additional choice of adding on a sunroom to your front awning to create another fully enclosed room. If you have children, the two room canvas tents are by far the more comfortable option. The tents come with a sturdy steel frame which further protects you from the elements, it also means that they are alot quieter than a dome tent in the wind. The fabric is waterproof, UV resistant and hard wearing, meaning that you get more life out of your tent.
The other huge bonus with a canvas tent is VOLUME. As the tents are of a square design you get alot more headspace that a tradional dome, which is much more relaxing and more like being in a small house - no having to bend in half to get dressed in the mornings. Our range of canvas tents also have great ventilation and light features via windows and side openings. There is a misconception that canvas tents take hours to erect. Not our tents, they come with easy instructions and colour coded poles and sleeves. Sure, the first time it will take you longer, but after that its no longer than 20 minutes with 2 people.
We encourage you to put the tent up in your back yard first anyway - for two good reasons. One - you may get to tour campsite in the dark and this will help in quick pitching if you have already done it once and second, its best to 'weather' your tent prior to use. Weathering your tent means pitching it and letting it get rained on and dried out several times. This ensures that the stitching expands where it goes through the stitch holes and prevents any sneaky leaks.
TENT FABRIC
Waterproofing in canvas tents
This is called a waterproof rating. A fabric that is waterproof at 1000mm can withhold a column of water 1 meter high on top of it!! Note - this measure refers to the pressure of the water on the fabric not how much rain has fallen [eg: 150mm in the last 24 hours]. It is also important to be aware that coating a fabric actually weakens it. Therefore manufacturers will coat the fabric the minimum amount possible while still being practically waterproof. Therefore a fabric waterproofed to 10,000mm instead of 3000mm (for example) does not indicate a better fabric nor is it required, as in canvas tents a 800mm fabric is sufficiently waterproof to withhold rain.
Waterproofing can be done through two processes:
- Impregnated waterproof fabrics
This involves waterproofing by impregnating each fibre. Usual water head rating is from 450 to 750mm. This means that a column of water 450 to 750mm high can be placed on the fabric before water can be forced through it. This method has more advantages as impregnating allows the pores of the fabric to breathe naturally, avoiding condensation.
- Coated Waterproof Fabrics
In coated fabrics, the waterproofing is coated over the surface of the fabric only. Most coated fabrics will have a water head rating of between 1000 to 1600mm. Although this method produces a higher waterproof rating, the spread coating seals the pores in the fabric and will not allow it to breathe. Once the coating has been punctured by sewing, the fabric cannot shrink easily around the stitch holes and this makes the tent less waterproof along the seams.
Burst strength
The amount of force required to puncture the fabric. The test is carried out with a spike on the end of pendulum that swings into a section of fabric from different heights until it breaks through the fabric.
Tear strength
The amount of force required to rip the fabric in half. The test is carried out with a machine that clamps either end of the fabric and stretches the fabric until it tears.
TIPS FOR SELECTING THE RIGHT CANVAS TENT
- Consider the size, weight and portability of your tent. How much room do you have in the car or boat to transport the tent.
- How many people do you need to sleep in the tent and how much living space do you require? The additional sunroom can be a great extra space for either sleeping or living
- How much outdoor shelter/protection does the tent provide
- Do you require separate living areas for family members?
- Where are you going camping, how often and for how long?
HELPFUL HINTS
- Always follow the manufacturers instructions
- When you first get your tent we strongly recommend that you pitch it. Why? This allows you to get familiar with your tent before you go camping (incase you have to pitch it in the dark). It also allows you to 'weather' your tent - a very important process. Pitch it then hose it down and allow to dry 3 or 4 times. This is essential to make your tent water tight. It allows the thread to expand and fill the stitch holes snugly.
- Pitch the floor as firm as possible before pitching the rest of the tent
- Always ensure that your tent is packed down perfectly dry. If this is not practical, dry your tent as soon as possible before storing away. Any mildew can rot your tent, so it is also very important to store it in a dry, ventilated place over the winter months.
- Take a cloth to wipe condensation off the bottom of the floor when you roll up your tent.
- Colour code your poles with insulation tape (if they are not already coded), that way you will find it easier to sort your poles next time.
GEAR CHECKLIST - FAMILY CAMPING
- Check the facilities of the campground - especially if you are going with children or to a remote area (like a DOC campground), i.e are the sites powered
- Check out any hazards in the campsite area, especially for children, such as streams, rivers and busy roads
Shelter
- your tent
- gazebo or beach shelter
- toilet tent
- hammer/mallet
Bedding
- Airbed or self-inflating mat
- Sleeping bags
- Stretchers
- Pillows
- Sleeping bag liner
- Pumps and repair kits
Camp Kitchen
- stove and gas cylinder, gas hose
- pots/pans/frypan
- Plates and eating utensils
- tongs
- Cutting board
- Sharp knife
- Washing up tub
- Tea Towels and scrubbing brush
- Food storage cupboard
- Folding camp kitchen
- BBQ
- Fridge/Chilly Bin
- Can Opener
- Slicker pads
Lighting
- gas or battery lantern
- extra gas/batteries
- headlamps
- Matches
- Torches
- Mantles
- Lantern pole
Bathroom
- solar shower
- portable toilet
- toilet paper
- mirror
- soap
- towel
- sunscreen
- first aid kit
- insect repellant
- toiletries
Accessories
- extra pegs
- extra guy ropes
- tent repair kit
- spare poles
- tarp
- Chairs
- Table
Extras
- camera
- wetsuit
- snorkel gear
- daypack
- radio
- powercord
- multiplug
- folding shovel
- fire extinguisher
- fishing gear
- kayak
- rubbish bags and zip lock bags
- hats
- rashshirts
- pocket knife
- Jandals for easy-on shoes to get to and from the loos and showers, for prickly terrain or burning sand
EXTRA FOR CAMPING WITH YOUNG CHILDREN
- Cards, books, toys, games, puzzles, drawing pads and pens - for wet weather
- On the ground high chair for babies
- Nappies, wipes, pushchair or baby carrier
- Childrens clothes, sunhats, sleeping bags, towel, warm blankets, sunhat and beanie, toys and books
- Portacot or pop-up cot
- A plastic contrainer such as a fish bin for bathing littlies, or a solar shower
- Kids bikes, balls, kite
- Cricket set, frisbees etc
- A small pack for day walks
- Lots of food!
- Warm clothes - even in summer it can get chilly - especially at night!
- Maybe they'd like to keep a holiday diary?
Alpine, Hiking and Travel Tents
Checkout out our hiking checklist at the bottom of this page to help with your preparation and packing!
Your tent is your shelter from the outside world. It must be able to keep moisture [dew, rain, snow etc] out and the warmth in, bur remain breathable. It also needs to be strong enough to handle winds, and/or snow loadings, and in order for you to stay comfortable be able to vent foul air out of the tent.
SEASONS
A tent's performance is commonly rated in 'seasons'. Some care must be used when comparing tents 'season ratings' especially between different retailers and manufacturers, and bearing in mind which country you intend to use it in.
4 Season Alpine
For use in alpine conditions all year round. These are the strongest tents available and are designed to handle heavy snow loadings, extreme winds and very cold temperatures.
4 Sseason Tramping
These are tents that you can use all year around, ideally beneath the snow-line.
3 Season Tramping
Strong and lightweight, but not designed to handle high snowloads (hence not recommended for winter). 3 season tramping tents are usually designed for warmer temperatures and are often made with mesh inserts for better air flow. Suitable for activities such as travelling and camping.
Travel/touring
These tents are designed for situations where weight is important, hence they are lightweight as well as waterproof. Ideally for summer use but, depending on climate and country, can be used in 3 seasons. These tents are designed to handle moderate winds and rain.
POLES
EASTON 7075 E9
The strongest tent poles available. Produced in the US by Easton. Most commonly found on alpine tents as most other categories of tent don't require the performance.
DURALIUM 7001 T6
Durable, strong aluminium pole with a copper and magnesium mix. Excellent cheaper option for tents that still require a performance aspect. They are approx. 80-90% as good as the Easton 7075 E9.
FLY FABRICS
There are two main fabric options; nylon and polyester, there are however many different fabric options for tent flys. There are very few measures that allow consumers to compare fabric properties. There are however a number of general rules. By and large nylons hold their strength better over their life span and are slightly more resistant to UV exposure. On the other hand, new coatings can increase polyester fabrics strength and polyesters flys shrink and expand a lot less than there nylon counterparts due to a lower level of water absorbsion.
Whether you chose a tent with a nylon or a polyester fly doesn't really matter too much [Manufacturers often have both nylon and polyester tents in their range and/or vary which fabric type of fabric they use depending on new technologies, availability and pricing. In short tent fabrics are continually under review. To make your life simple let the manufacturer worry about the type of the fabric and chose a reputable brand that has good after sales service.
FLOOR FABRICS
Floors are made in heavier fabrics with additional waterproof coating to make them more durable and watertight.
WATERPROOFING / WATERHEAD RATING
Nylon or polyester fabrics have by themselves no waterproofing ability. The waterproofness of a fabric is determined by a coating that is rolled onto the fabric [on cheaper fabrics the coating is sprayed on resulting in uneven application and a less durable adhesion]. Waterproofing is measured in hydrostatic head. A fabric that is waterproof at 3000mm can withhold a column of water 3 meters high on top of it!! Note - this measure refers to the pressure of the water on the fabric not how much rain has fallen [eg: 150mm in the last 24 hours].
It is also important to be aware that coating a fabric actually weakens it. Therefore manufacturers will coat the fabric the minimum amount possible while still being practically waterproof. Therefore a fabric waterproofed to 10,000mm instead of 3000mm (for example) does not indicate a better fabric nor is it required, as a 1500mm fabric is sufficiently waterproof to withhold rain.
GEAR CHECKLIST - HIKING
- Waterproof and breathable jacket
- Waterproof and breathable overpants
- Merino Wool/Fleece hat
- Sunhat
- Merino Wool/Fleece gloves
- Appropriate and comfortable footwear
- Softshell/Fleece top
- Merino Wool midlayer
- Merino wool/thermal under layer and leggings
- Lightweight quick dry shirt, pants and shorts
- Quality socks x 2 (1 pair for walking and 1 for the hut)
- Comfortable (correctly fitted) backpack and rain cover
- Insect repellant and sunscreen
- Jandals/sandals for night time
- Water bottle or hydration system
- Packtowel (lightweight quick-drying towel)
- Sunglasses
- Personal toiletries
- First Aid and footcare
- Headtorch
- Hiking poles
- Camera and extra batteries
- Cap
- Gaitors
- Basic tent repair kit - emergency pole sleeve, seam sealant and fabric swatches
Bikes
Choosing the Right Bike for you.
At R&R Sport we have a large range of bicycles to meet everyone’s need. Now that you have started looking at buying a bike there are a few questions you should think about which will make your decision and eventual riding pleasure more enjoyable.
Some of the basic questions include:
- Where do I want to ride and how often?
- Do I want to ride off-road on forest trails and gravel roads or will I stick to the pavement?
- How much do I want to spend?
Depending upon your answer to these questions you may have already narrowed down the selection of possible bikes that are suitable for you. The next step involves getting to know these bikes in more detail, to find the perfect match.
One of the most important factors in determining the perfect fit is the size of frame that you choose. Once you get this right the other parts can be changed or adjusted to customize the bike to what you feel comfortable with.
How to choose the right frame size
A good ballpark indicator of how a frame fits, is your stand over height. This is the clearance between your crotch and the top frame tube, when you're straddling the bike. On bicycles designed for road use, you usually want about 25mm to 75mm of clearance (depending on the size and design of the bike). On off-road models, which usually have sloping top tubes and long seat posts, more clearance is needed. Look for 75mm to 150mm (depending on size and design).
This is a guide only and although there are a variety of other ways for calculating the correct frame size, in our opinion the best way to ensure the correct fit is to ask our experts at any of the R&R Sport’s stores nationwide. When you visit us, we will get you to stand over a few different frame sizes and models so we can determine the correct size for your body dimensions. When we find a frame size that's right, we raise the seat to provide the proper leg reach for pedaling and then ensure that the reach to the handlebars is right for your arm and torso lengths. With a few small adjustments it is often possible to find a bike that fits your perfectly.
How to set the bike up correctly.
At R&R Sport we are committed to making sure that the bike you choose is not only the correct size for you but that your riding position on the bike is also correct. To assist us with this we make use of leading edge technology in the form of the Dialed in Motion software.*Not available in all stores
Dialed in Motion is a dynamic bike fitting system that allows us to accurately measure critical body angles and advises us of the optimal adjustments that need to be made. This technology in conjunction with the knowledge and experience of our expert staff helps ensure we get a perfect fit for you.
What else do I need to go riding?
Now that you have your bike sorted the next thing you will need before you go riding is a helmet !
R&R Sport recommends that you always wear a helmet every time you ride. (In New Zealand this is a legal requirement!) You may think they don't look cool or that they're too cumbersome, but they're cooler and less cumbersome than memory loss from an accident.
Your helmet should fit you comfortably and correctly. So, how do you choose the right helmet?
Choosing the Right Fit
The biggest key to choosing the right bike helmet is finding one that fits you. Helmets come in several sizes (typically sized in inches) and most are designed to fit a small range of head sizes. To find the right size, use a tape measure to measure around the largest portion of your head. This will be about 2-3 cms above your eyebrows. Look for a helmet that matches that measurement. If you're between sizes, order the smaller size.
Many helmets have a fitting system that includes sizing pads and adjustable straps. A good-fitting helmet will be snug, but not tight. It should sit level on your head (not tilted back) with the front edge no more than about 2 or 3 cms above your eyebrows. Push the helmet from side to side and back to front. If the helmet shifts in any direction, use the sizing pads provided with the helmet to snug up the fit. Next, buckle and tighten the chinstrap. Push up on the front edge of the helmet, then up on the back edge. If the helmet moves significantly in either direction, tighten the chinstrap and try again. Finally, with the strap buckled, open your mouth. If the helmet doesn't press firmly down against your forehead as you do so, tighten further and repeat.
Replacing Your Helmet
Any time your helmet is involved in an accident, it's likely to get damaged. Since damage isn't always easy to spot visually, replace the helmet after any significant impact, even if everything "looks" okay. You should also replace any helmet after 5 years, even if it hasn't been involved in a crash, since pollution, UV light and weathering can weaken its component parts over time.
Other Essentials
Other things you may also want to consider, and which R&R Sports highly recommend you invest in are a basic repair kit. This should include as a minimum the following:
Basic Home Mechanics.
Below are some links to video clips showing you how to do basic home maintenance on your bike.
Bikes
Choosing the Right Bike for you.
At R&R Sport we have a large range of bicycles to meet everyone’s need. Now that you have started looking at buying a bike there are a few questions you should think about which will make your decision and eventual riding pleasure more enjoyable.
Some of the basic questions include:
- Where do I want to ride and how often?
- Do I want to ride off-road on forest trails and gravel roads or will I stick to the pavement?
- How much do I want to spend?
Depending upon your answer to these questions you may have already narrowed down the selection of possible bikes that are suitable for you. The next step involves getting to know these bikes in more detail, to find the perfect match.
One of the most important factors in determining the perfect fit is the size of frame that you choose. Once you get this right the other parts can be changed or adjusted to customize the bike to what you feel comfortable with.
How to choose the right frame size
A good ballpark indicator of how a frame fits, is your stand over height. This is the clearance between your crotch and the top frame tube, when you're straddling the bike. On bicycles designed for road use, you usually want about 25mm to 75mm of clearance (depending on the size and design of the bike). On off-road models, which usually have sloping top tubes and long seat posts, more clearance is needed. Look for 75mm to 150mm (depending on size and design).
This is a guide only and although there are a variety of other ways for calculating the correct frame size, in our opinion the best way to ensure the correct fit is to ask our experts at any of the R&R Sport’s stores nationwide. When you visit us, we will get you to stand over a few different frame sizes and models so we can determine the correct size for your body dimensions. When we find a frame size that's right, we raise the seat to provide the proper leg reach for pedaling and then ensure that the reach to the handlebars is right for your arm and torso lengths. With a few small adjustments it is often possible to find a bike that fits your perfectly.
How to set the bike up correctly.
At R&R Sport we are committed to making sure that the bike you choose is not only the correct size for you but that your riding position on the bike is also correct. To assist us with this we make use of leading edge technology in the form of the Dialed in Motion software.*Not available in all stores
Dialed in Motion is a dynamic bike fitting system that allows us to accurately measure critical body angles and advises us of the optimal adjustments that need to be made to ensure a perfect fit.
What else do I need to go riding?
Now that you have your bike sorted the next thing you will need before you go riding is a helmet !
R&R Sport recommends that you always wear a helmet every time you ride. (In New Zealand this is a legal requirement!) You may think they don't look cool or that they're too cumbersome, but they're cooler and less cumbersome than memory loss from an accident.
Your helmet should fit you comfortably and correctly. So, how do you choose the right helmet?
Choosing the Right Fit
The biggest key to choosing the right bike helmet is finding one that fits you. Helmets come in several sizes (typically sized in inches) and most are designed to fit a small range of head sizes. To find the right size, use a tape measure to measure around the largest portion of your head. This will be about 2-3 cms above your eyebrows. Look for a helmet that matches that measurement. If you're between sizes, order the smaller size.
Many helmets have a fitting system that includes sizing pads and adjustable straps. A good-fitting helmet will be snug, but not tight. It should sit level on your head (not tilted back) with the front edge no more than about 2 or 3 cms above your eyebrows. Push the helmet from side to side and back to front. If the helmet shifts in any direction, use the sizing pads provided with the helmet to snug up the fit. Next, buckle and tighten the chinstrap. Push up on the front edge of the helmet, then up on the back edge. If the helmet moves significantly in either direction, tighten the chinstrap and try again. Finally, with the strap buckled, open your mouth. If the helmet doesn't press firmly down against your forehead as you do so, tighten further and repeat.
Replacing Your Helmet
Any time your helmet is involved in an accident, it's likely to get damaged. Since damage isn't always easy to spot visually, replace the helmet after any significant impact, even if everything "looks" okay. You should also replace any helmet after 5 years, even if it hasn't been involved in a crash, since pollution, UV light and weathering can weaken its component parts over time.
Other Essentials
Other things you may also want to consider, and which R&R Sports highly recommend you invest in are a basic repair kit. This should include as a minimum the following:
- A pump. These are small and easily attach to the frame of your bike.
- Tire levers.
- A spare tube or puncture repair kit (and know how to use! – if you are unsure pop in and ask any of our friendly staff. They are only to happy to assist)
- Seat pack to carry the tube and levers.
Footwear
Choosing the right footwear
At R&R Sports we stock a large range of footwear for just about every purpose ranging from morning walks with the dog through to summiting some of the worlds highest peaks. With such a large range we are sure that we can find the right footwear for your needs.
Below are some tips to help you when deciding what footwear you need and remember if your not sure you can pop into any R&R Sport store nationwide and our expert staff will be happy to help you.
Getting the Right Fit:
Fit is the single most crucial factor determining comfort. But it's not the only factor; you must also select boots that offer the right amount of support. That's because support, ultimately, also translates into comfort. The amount of support you need depends on the weight on your back and the terrain where you'll be traveling. Footwear that's too soft and floppy for your load will let sharp stones bruise your arches and encourage ankle sprains. Sloppy boots also let your foot slide around inside when the terrain gets rough. That leads to hot spots and blisters. A good fit and sufficient support for your load are the two keys to finding the right footgear. Embark on a week-long hiking trip and you'll need foot support, the kind provided by solidly built tramping boots. Be extra-careful about the fit of hiking boots: the stiffer and more supportive they are, the more critical the fit.
The fit of a boot is determined by the last, the plastic form on which the boot is built. Lasts vary significantly from one boot company to the next, so you should always try on boots from several manufacturers. Women's feet are shaped differently than men's. Women will generally get the best fit in a boot built on a true women's last, not a downsized men's last. A properly fitted boot should provide ample room for your toes, yet be snug around the heel and instep so your heel doesn't slide up and down inside the boot as you walk. It should be long enough that your toes don't bang into the toe box when you're hiking downhill.
To check for proper length, loosen the laces completely, slip your foot into the boot and slide it all the way forward. You should be able to fit a couple of fingers behind your heel. With the boots laced up, walk around the store. Stand on a sharp edge to see how well the boot protects your arch. Let your foot rock from side to side to check stability and ankle support and to make sure the heel cup doesn't jab you under the ankle bone in rough terrain. Hook the boot heel on a step and point your toes downward to confirm that the boot will hold your foot securely in place during long descents. If possible, try on boots with the load you'll be carrying. Throw a heavy weight on your back and the backpacking boot that felt stiff and awkward a moment earlier will suddenly feel like the right tool for the job.
That takes care of fit; now let's analyze the second half of the comfort equation: support. Support is determined both by the materials and the type of construction. Materials and construction also determine how long that support will last. Despite recent advances in the fabrics used in boot-making, old-fashioned leather is still the premium material for boot uppers. The highest-quality, most water-resistant and most expensive leather, called top-grain or full-grain, includes the tough, outer surface of the hide. Less expensive split leather is cut from inner layers of the hide. Inexpensive uppers are a patchwork quilt of fabric (usually an abrasion-resistant nylon like Cordura) and split leather. Such fabric/leather boots can be a good value for people who stick to trails with moderate loads, but they usually have lots of seams. Any place you've got a seam, you've got a place where the boot can come apart. Seams are also potential leak points. Better boots have fewer seams; the best have so-called one-piece uppers, with no seams except along the backstay behind your heel.
Right Fit, Guaranteed!
At R&R Sport we are so confident that we have the skilled staff and range of products that we guarantee to find or fit a boot* that is comfortable for you.
This means no more uncomfortable days standing in lift queues; undoing buckles on the chair or applying blister block everyday.
* Excludes jandals,sandals and fashion shoes. Not available in Queenstown Store
Different types of footwear.
Alpine Boots:
Our alpine footwear is designed for general mountaineering, snowfields, and difficult backpacking. These are all-round winter mountain walking boots that are also suitable for climbing. They can be used with crampons.
Tramping Boots:
Tramping (or hiking) boots are suitable for walking in rugged conditions. The more lightweight boots are really just for day-hikes, where you won't be subjecting them to a lot of abuse. More heavily-constructed boots are better when you want to walk for three to four days, or carry more. These boots will provide a bit more support so you'll be less likely to twist an ankle. Don't be intimidated if you don't have and can't afford a pair of super-ace Mountain Goat expedition boots. However, if you can afford decent tramping boots, you'll be more confident in off-trail situations where traction is vital, safer in bad weather, and probably more secure with a heavy pack. Cared for properly, good boots will last a long time, depending on how hard you and the terrain are on them.
Knowing boot anatomy and available boot features is a big part of the boot buying process. Here are a few tips to make that process easier.
Leather Upper:
Full grain is the outermost part of the cow's hide; it is the stiffest, most waterproof type of leather. It is sometimes turned inside-out (rough-out) so the smooth, outer layer won't get nicked or scratched. The upper part of the boot should have as few seams as possible. A one-piece upper is more water resistant.
Sole:
The sole has three parts: a padded "footbed" just below your foot, an "insole" below the footbed and an "outsole" on the bottom. The insole can be soft and flexible for light hiking, or it can be stiffened with a half- or full-length "shank" (sheet) of plastic or steel for added support.
The sole is made of rubber (Vibram is a type of stiff hard rubber) with a "lug" pattern designed for gripping the path. Deep lugs are best for steep rugged terrain, while shallow lug patterns are lighter and more flexible.
Remarkable new advances have been made in boot design and boot materials of late. Check out the wrap-around high-carbon rubber outer soles on the new tramping boots, which also feature inner Gore-Text boot liners which let your foot breathe and stay dry at the same time. And if you can only afford one pair of boots for walking the streets and the trails, there is now a whole line of "cross-over" lightweights, which work wonders in both environments. Note that many brands will be stiff from new and you should allow time for them to "break in". This means they'll need a bit of wear and tear before starting to feel really comfortable.
Sandals:
Sandals need to be capable of handling demanding use. Look for such features as lateral/medial foot support posts, molded foot frames with cushioning, and patterned soles for traction.
Tramping Shoes:
Tramping shoes will generally not have the same degree of ankle support or provide as much protection as a boot. They will however, still be suitable for all-round general hard use, day hikes and varying multi-sport demands such as trail running. Look for features such as anatomical foot beds and cushioned midsoles.
Packs
KEY CONCEPTS
A good pack is one that will allow you to carry heavy loads over rough terrain for a long period of time in the most comfortable manner possible.
BUYING TIPS
Think carefully about what you plan to do with the pack you're looking at and ask yourself the following questions: What kind of load and amount of weight will you be carrying? Over what kind of terrain will you be travelling? How will you travel?
TYPES OF PACKS
Daypacks:
Technical daypacks suit a range of activities; rock climbing, MTB, running, skiing/snowboarding and short alpine trips. These packs have quality harnesses and fabrics and come in a range of sizes and styles. Urban daypacks are designed to be simple but functional. They are comfortable to carry to work, college or school and are well constructed for dependable perfromance. These packs offer excellent value for money.
Hydration Packs:
Water. It's the outdoor athlete's most precious commodity. Until recently, transporting water was limited to how many canteens you could strap on your belt or fit in your pack. However, through the miracle of modern materials and some clever engineering, water is now easier to carry with you than ever before. For the casual tramper or biker, a water bottle stuffed into a daypack or a bottle cage is sufficient. However, if the hike goes for more than an hour or the bike ride is more than a few kms, you'll need to start adding water bottles. A fairly new invention, hydration packs were developed for the mountain biker in need of a hands-free way to drink water while dodging trees. Now, athletes find them useful in almost every sport.
Hydration packs use a tube with a valve at the end so that a simple bend of the neck and a bite introduces your mouth to the water it craves. The first packs were simple, collapsible reservoirs surrounded by neoprene and attached via shoulder straps. Today's options are more stylish and comfortable and can feature one reservoir or two. Our pack units are either streamlined or robust, with extra room for lunch and gear.
Tramping & Climbing Packs:
Climbing packs are designed for alpine climbing. They are lightweight but strong, with multiple gear attachment points to carry a variety of toys. Most of our climbing packs come in a variety of harness lengths to fit all body shapes, and many have a women’s specific harness. Tramping packs are used only for hiking. They have extra features such as front pockets and gear attachment points for a tent or roll mat. Packs in this category range from the stripped down variety that include essential features only, to large capacity fully-equipped packs suitable for a week or two in the wilderness. And yes… many come with a harness especially for women.
Travelling Packs:
These are all packs that you can live out of when you're away from home for extended periods. Our travelling packs are useful for when you will be using transport a lot but need to be able to carry your pack from A to B now and then. Travelling packs are designed for the person who is travelling mainly by vehicle with a little bit of hiking thrown in. These packs are capable of carrying high loads. They have extra features over your standard tramping pack such as greater accessibility to the contents and zip-up harnesses (to get those straps out of the way when you are travelling by transport). They also come with removable day bags that can be attached to either the back of the pack or the front of the harness, plus internal organizers just like a suitcase.
FITTING A PACK
For maximum carrying comfort it is important to pack the load and adjust the backpack correctly. The sleeping bag belongs in the bottom compartment, heavy items close to the back. Small items are conveniently placed in the top lid so they are quickly accessible. For easiest carrying, try to place the centre of gravity over the middle of the shoulders.
For adjusting the back system, it is best to place a realistic load in the backpack. First loosen all straps. Shoulder the backpack, position the hip belt and tighten. In doing so the middle of the hip belt should lie over the hip bones, not above because it could constrict the stomach. Tighten the shoulder straps, however not too much because the hip belt should carry most of the load. With correct adjustment, the shoulder straps will follow the curve of your shoulders. Then tighten the hip belt stabilizer straps, also tension the shoulder stabilizer straps to pull the load closer to your back and your centre of gravity. Tighter adjustment for rugged terrain and looser adjustment for easy terrain or better ventilation. Finally, close the sternum strap to improve the fit of the shoulder straps.
Harnesses:
The harness is the most important feature of ANY pack. All the packs we carry feature some type of advanced harness designed to provide the most correct ergonomic fit. Usually the more you pay the more features you'll get, meaning a better fit. Most importantly this means a much more comfortable and enjoyable outdoor experience!
MAINTENANCE
Due to their resilience packs are pretty low maintenance item, though it's always good to keep them clean or they get a bit smelly after a while. Hand-washing your pack in warm soapy water should have it looking (and smelling) like new. Do not use petroleum products to clean your pack.
Sleeping Bags
KEY CONCEPTS
How Sleeping Bags Work:
Sleeping bags work by trapping air around your body. Your body then heats this air making the inside of your bag warm. To do this, sleeping bags must keep cold air outside and hold warm air inside your sleeping bag. Sleeping bags keep cold air outside your sleeping bag (and hold warm air in) by providing an insulation layer. In simplistic terms, the thicker the sleeping bag, the better insulating the sleeping bag is and therefore the warmer you are. The amount of air inside the bag is important too. The more air you have inside the bag, the more air your body has to heat. The less air (ie: the more fitting the sleeping bag) the quicker your body can heat up the bag.
Types of Sleeping Bags:
There are two major categories of sleeping bags; down filled and synthetic filled. In general down filled bags are chosen for their superior warmth, their longevity, and their renowned ability to compress extremely small. Synthetic bags are cheaper than their down counterparts, but have shorter lives and per weight are more bulky and not as warm. However, once wet synthetic bags will outperform down bags. There are, however, very few performance synthetic bags available. More commonly synthetic bags are brought by people who are on a limited budget or are using the bags in situations where warmth to weight ratios are not so important like camping or having as a spare for visitors etc. Synthetic bags are also popular for children, as they are cheaper and easier to clean if dirty.
The Anatomy of a Sleeping Bag:
Sleeping bags (at there most basic level) consist of pieces of material sown together to hold some type of insulating fill in the most efficient position with a zip down one side allowing you to get in and out and control the amount of air flow. There are many different fabrics, insulating fills and techniques to maximise the ability of the bag to trap and hold air. In the Tech Talk section you can read about baffling and loft power if you are interested in down bags. Sleeping bags come in two different shapes. Mummy bags are those that well…. look like a mummy. Rectangular sleeping bags are, you guessed it, rectangular. Mummy bags are more efficient at trapping air as there is less air to heat. They are also lighter and slightly smaller than rectangular bags. Rectangular bags are better if you want a sleeping bag that is suitable over a wider range of temperatures (you can vent better on a rectangular bag) and they can also be opened up and used as blankets.
BUYING TIPS
There are several decisions you need to make. In what conditions am I going to use the sleeping bag? Eg: travel, tramping or mountaineering? How cold can I expect to be in these conditions and how often? Does a mummy or a rectangular bag better suit my needs? What's better for me? A synthetic or down bag? Once you have answered these questions it is just a matter of looking at the different bags and finding the best fit to your needs. There are three important areas to look at when buying a sleeping bag: The fabrics, the amount and quality of the fill and the construction method. Read the Tech Talk section to understand some of the key terms. These key terms will allow you to compare sleeping bags so that you can find the best one for you.
TECH TALK
In order to compare sleeping bags it is necessary to understand some of the key terms. Comparing these will allow you to weigh up the comparative strengths and weaknesses of each bag.
Baffling:
Down sleeping bags require a series of chambers to limit the down movement and provide a structure which the down can loft within. Think of baffling as framing on a house; you cannot build a house only out of Pink Bats insulation, you must have a structure there to start with. The major types of baffling are:
Box baffles are simple rectangular baffles. Simple and cheap baffling technique. Not as efficient as some other techniques.
Slant box baffles take the simplicity of the 'box' baffle and add performance by placing the vertical seam on an angle. This increases the thermal efficiency of the bag by minimising heat loss through the seams and providing a better framework for the down to loft in.
Trapeziod baffles further improve on slant box baffles by allowing a more even down distribution in the baffle.
V Tube baffles are very efficient at maximising down loft, but extremely heavy. By and large it is more efficient (and cheaper) to place slightly more down in the bag and reduce the baffling. V tubes can be used effectively in certain locations in the bag such as the sidewall.
Other important factors are the number of baffles in a bag and the method used to stitch the baffles together. These features are however, much harder to compare across bags. A sleeping bag with more baffles is not necessarily warmer than one with less. Likewise while some baffle stitching techniques are better than others there are many techniques which are more than suffice, even for the extreme user. Sleeping bag design is part science, part art. At the end of the day you need to trust your manufacturer's experience and expertise. We only stock quality-constructed sleeping bags. We therefore feel that using the indicators of down quality, down quantity and fabrics is the best method of choosing a sleeping bag.
Loft Power:
Down quality is one of the most important factors in a down bag. There are multiple different types of down. These are often given names such as '90/10 duck down' or '100% goose down'. By and large these labels are not a true indicator of the performance of the down. Down performance is measured by loft power. Loft power of a given down is found by taking a compressed once of down and letting it expand in a set period of time under standard humidity, temperature and pressure. The number of cubic inches that a down fills is referred to as loft power. This measure allows you to compare all downs. Currently, low quality downs are rated around 500 loft power with the very top downs exceeding 750. Loft power figures are usually provided by manufacturers after the down has been independently certified. The figure refers to the lowest possible quality within the bag. For example a 700 loft power bag is guaranteed to be at least 700 loft power minimum.
Nylon Taffeta:
Nylon taffeta is commonly used as an inner and outer fabric. It is soft against the skin, windproof and highly compressible.
LINERS
The simplest way to keep your bag clean and performing well is to use a liner. You sleep inside your liner inside your sleeping bag (like sheets on a bed). This way the liner can absorbs your body oils and protects your sleeping bag from dirt on your clothes or body. Liners are also easily washed. It is much easier to wash your liner than your sleeping bag. We reckon silk is best. It is light, compact and comes in cool colours. It will also keep you warm when cold and cool you when hot.
MAINTENANCE
Sleeping bags require care. To get the most out of your investment care for you bag.
WASHING AND CLEANING
Follow the care label over all advice given here. Many bags can be cleaned at the drycleaners and if this option is available we recommend you take it. It is simple, quite cheap and fast. Choose a drycleaner who specialises in sleeping bags. If you cannot dryclean your bag, it can be washed in the bath with MILD soap or down wash. Bags need to be gently washed as they are extremely fragile when wet. To dry, place in a warm dry place out of direct sunlight. It will take several days to dry your bag. Do not try to hurry the process.
STORAGE
Store you sleeping bag in a dry warm place in a large bag such as a large pillow case or a purpose built sleeping bag storage sac. Spare cupboards are a great place to store them. If you store your sleeping bag in its stuff sack it will compress the fill and over time it will ruin its ability to loft.
Snow Skis
Take the guess work out of selecting the right ski. Click here to try our new ski selector tool.
Ski Types
On Piste/Groomer
This is for easy carving on all groomed trails. Quick, responsive edge movements makesfor a fun ,controlled day cruising the mountain.
Freestyle/Park Skis
For many young jibbers, this is the only way to go. With the development of terrain parks and halfpipes in most resorts, short twin-tip skis put spins and fakie moves in the reach of everyone.
Off Piste/Powder
This is what the big boys use. These tough skis allow the best to cut through any back country conditions you can find. As fat as they come, these are the best way to take on 'real' off-piste skiing.
Freeride/All Terrain Skis
If you want to be able to head everywhere this is the best ski for you. Mainly for off-piste, these skis are a compromise between side-cut for skiing on the piste, but fat enough to stay up in deep snow. All Terrain skis are easier to handle off piste, but are mainly designed with the piste in mind. Overall much less demanding than freeride skis.
Length
The days of 2m plus skis have now long gone. It used to be that you started on short skis and progressed to longer sizes as you went on. Now, the length of your ski is going to be determined by the type of skis you're looking for. A very general rule to go by when sizing up your skis is to stand them on their tail and stand next to them and get a ski that comes between your eyes and chin, however, as our visual aid of the skier suggests, different styles of skiing will also affect the length of your skis. It is our recommendation that the best way to get the right sized ski is to visit your local R&R Sport store and talk to ski professionals.
Ski Boots
You can have the best skis or boards in the world, but unless you have comfortable and responsive boots, youre not going anywhere!
Whether you like to cruise, hit the off-piste or the park, you need the boots to help you do the job, and there are probably going to be your first equipment purchase ahead of skis or a board.
What is a boot for?
Its not just for keeping your feet dry! Your boot is your link to your skis and the movements you want it to make against the snow. It has to be able to translate your choices effectively and, as you could be wearing them for up to 8 hours in a day, comfortably.
What sort of boot?
Recreational skiers should generally look at a flexible boot, but if youre really looking for performance from your boots, you should be looking at stiffer, more expensive models.
Rear-entry boots provided a few amusing puns for skiers in the late-80s and 90s, but although comfortable and easy to do up, these are really only suitable for beginners or low-intermediates. Afront- or mid-entry boot offers a much higher level of control, and modern technology (see fitting) allows a much more comfortable fit.
Footbeds - the foundation of the ski
There are very few boots that will fit you like a glove (like a sock?) first time round. However, footbeds are essentially the foundation of the ski and custom footbeds will greatly enhance your stability, support, comfort and alignment. Most of our stores around the country have professional foot bed machines where we can custom make a footbed for your boot/foot. Other pressure points, caused by odd-shaped bones & toes can also be tackled with some surgery on your boot. This can include heating the shell to change the shape, adding or cutting out padding.
Points to watch for:
- Make sure your foot cannot move about inside the boot, but is not too tight
- stand up in the boot, leaning back - your toes should not touch the front
- can you lift your heel up, it shouldnt have much give
- can you move your foot from side to side, without moving the boot
One final tip - if all of the above applies and your boots are still giving you pain - change them!
Choosing a ski boot
Most skiers, even occasional recreational skiers, recognize the benefits of owning your own equipment over renting at the slopes. Ski boots are a highly specialized type of footwear designed to specific parameters to suit various types of skiers and skiing. The type of ski boot you need will depend on a number of factors including: your level of experience and technical skill as a skier, the type of skiing you do, where you ski and your budget.
Snowboards
Take the guess work out of selecting the right snowboard. Click here to try our new snowboard selector tool.
How to Choose a Snowboard
A little basic knowledge will take you a long way. Simply by knowing the type of boarding you will be doing, you can start to make decisions on board length, width, sidecut, flex, scoop and the materials used. Selected boards can be purchased online at R&R Sport, but, if possible, you should consider a visit to your nearest R&R Sport store for best selection and expert advice.
Male or Female, Adult or Child?
As snowboarding grows in popularity, so does your choice of boards. Now some snowboards come in gender sizes and styles instead of simply one unisex size. Because women tend to be shorter than men, have shorter legs and smaller feet, women may want to look for a board that is softer, lighter, narrower and/or shorter. The same rule applies for children.
What's Your Ability Level?
Are you a beginner, intermediate or advanced boarder? Are you aggressive or less aggressive? There are different boards for all levels--a few common-sense rules apply: If you are a beginner, look for basic gear that is less expensive and that allows you to explore different styles of riding. If you are an intermediate boarder, you probably know the basics but want a board to start exploring, do some tricks or try more difficult terrain. If you are an advanced boarder and you can handle any terrain or snow condition, you need a high-performance board.
What Type of Snowboarder are you ?
When making this decision consider what part of the mountain you will be riding. Is it steep, hardpacked or powder? Will you be at a ski area or in the backcountry? Do you want to cross over to more than one type of snowboarding? Are you interested in a high-performance specialized board or one board that can do a variety of things? By determining where you want to ride and your own ability this will help make narrow your decision down to a few selected models of board which can again be further refined depending on your style.
As a guide if you enjoy carving the piste, riding forward and speed then look at the more freeride orientated boards. For park/pipe and rails as well as riding switch then a freestyle board is probably more to your liking. Still not sure but want a single board for everything then consider the All Mountain boards as these will allow you to ride powder, shred the piste, and pop into and out of the park.
Board Basics
Length:
To choose the right board length, simply factor in your height, weight and the type of snow and terrain you expect to see. In general, shorter boards are more maneuverable while longer boards take more energy.
Your Height:
In general, a board that stands between your chin and nose is considered a good length.
Your Weight:
This is important because you need to be able to flex the board to do turns or tricks. If you are heavier than average, move to a longer board for better flotation. If you are lighter than average, choose a shorter board to get the best maneuverability.
If you ride deep powder in wide open bowls, choose a longer board for greater flotation. If you gravitate to technical terrain, choose a shorter board for maneuverability. Plans for the backcountry? Consider a longer board for carrying the extra weight of a backpack.
Width:
Another factor in selecting a board is your boot size. Snowboarders with a boot size of men's 10.5 or larger may have "boot drag" on a standard-width board. Boot drag is when the toe and heel of your boot extend over the edges of the board. To alleviate this, you can either increase your stance angle so the boot is brought closer to the board, or buy a wider board for riders with big feet. A wide board gives you greater stability and flotation.
Flex:
If you are a beginner or prefer snowboard parks or the half-pipe, consider a more flexible board. A softer board turns at lower speeds, and it can take short turns. If you are more advanced and like all terrain, a stiffer board will give you great control on turns, but if the board is too stiff, you may not be able to flex it. If visiting a store, you can compare the flex of a board by pushing it in the centre while it is standing upright.
Sidecut Depth:
Sidecut is a measure of the turning radius. The smaller the radius measurement, the sharper the turns it can make. The longer the sidecut measurement, the wider the turns.
Effective Edge:
The effective edge is the part of the board that is in contact with the snow. The longer this edge, the greater stability there is at high speeds and the more the edges will grip in turns. The shorter the effective edge, the easier it is to initiate turns and spins.
Camber:
Camber refers to the tension of the board--it increases or decreases depending on how much weight you have on the board. A less cambered board is more maneuverable, while more camber makes a board more stable. A reverse camber gives you more lift in powder.
Board Materials: This topic can be an overwhelming jumble of manufacturer names and techniques, but there are a few basic terms you should know.
Core material:
Wood or foam is usually used for the board's core. Wood cores are the most common since they are firm, durable and responsive. Foam cores are softer, discourage vibrations and are more flexible, but they are less responsive than wood.
Base material:
Bases are usually made from polyethylene and are either sintered or extruded. Sintered bases are made by heating powder polymers. They are durable, fast and hold wax well. Extruded bases are made by forcing polymer through a die. They are easy to repair and less expensive.
Snowboard Boots
You can have the best skis or boards in the world, but unless you have comfortable and responsive boots, youre not going anywhere!
Whether you like to cruise, hit the off-piste or the park, you need the boots to help you do the job, and there are probably going to be your first equipment purchase ahead of skis or a board.
What is a boot for?
Its not just for keeping your feet dry! Your boot is your link to your skis and the movements you want it to make against the snow. It has to be able to translate your choices effectively and, as you could be wearing them for up to 8 hours in a day, comfortably.
What sort of boot?
Recreational snowboarders should generally look at a flexible boot, but if youre really looking for performance from your boots, you should be looking at stiffer, more expensive models.
Rear-entry boots provided a few amusing puns for skiers in the late-80s and 90s, but although comfortable and easy to do up, these are really only suitable for beginners or low-intermediates. Afront- or mid-entry boot offers a much higher level of control, and modern technology (see fitting) allows a much more comfortable fit.
Footbeds - the foundation of the snowboard
There are very few boots that will fit you like a glove (like a sock?) first time round. However, footbeds are essentially the foundation of the snowboard and custom footbeds will greatly enhance your stability, support, comfort and alignment. Most of our stores around the country have professional foot bed machines where we can custom make a footbed for your boot/foot. Other pressure points, caused by odd-shaped bones & toes can also be tackled with some surgery on your boot. This can include heating the shell to change the shape, adding or cutting out padding.
Points to watch for:
- Make sure your foot cannot move about inside the boot, but is not too tight
- stand up in the boot, leaning back - your toes should not touch the front
- can you lift your heel up, it shouldnt have much give
- can you move your foot from side to side, without moving the boot
One final tip - if all of the above applies and your boots are still giving you pain - change them!
Boot Tips
- Dont leave them in the car/outside overnight
- Dry your boots each day
- Do up the buckles on your boots at the end of each day
- Consider two pairs of thin socks if one thick pair isnt wo
Piha
